Manhattan Beach 2015: Trout Lake in the Rain

Manhattan Beach on a cloudy afternoon

This summer has been spectacular so far, so beautiful that summer vacations have been the "best yet" for anyone who spent time at any of our lovely Minnesota lakes. However, we've been busy with projects around the house and just haven't taken the time for a few days at "the lake".

Bob called Manhattan Beach Lodge on Sunday and got a reservation for a few days this week. We should have checked the weather -- as we always do, but the endless good weather made us careless and we forged ahead without a second thought.

Today, we drove through mostly light rain to get here, and since a downpour seemed imminent we didn't even launch the boat today. Fortunately, we got to be outside for part of the afternoon and enjoyed our little cocktail hour in our room, watching the light rain through the window looking out at Trout Lake. Then we had a breakfast supper at Pine Peaks in downtown Cross. It wasn't very good but I was in no mood for bar food and drink.

I think it will rain all day tomorrow so we're planning our day around non-water activities, a new thing for us. I'm really OK with the rain, as I can always find entertainment as long as I have something to read. I am a little disappointed with the resort, which seemed so upscale years ago when we first started coming here for a drink or an appetizer, when we were campers at the Corps of Engineers campground.

Members of a rather scruffy family have spent most of the afternoon in the lobby not far from our room drinking beer and eating various snacks. They go outside to smoke and talk to hotel guests entering and leaving the building, occasionally returning to their chips and salsa in a large Tupperware container, plunked on a lobby coffee table. The venue has something of a bar room feel, just a little tacky.

Meanwhile, the Twins beating the Yankees 4-1in New York but the bases are loaded in the bottom of the seventh inning, and a good outcome seems unlikely. Ah, but the view is priceless and the water is clear and clean only a few feet from our room. The weather will clear by Thursday and we'll enjoy a fantastic sunset after a day on the lake. Life is pretty good.

Click for more stories about Crow Wing County and Manhattan Beach. Summer photos here.

Spring in Prescott

Southern section of St Croix River Byway

The St Croix Scenic Byway stretches all the way from Askov to the Great River Road near Prescott, at the confluence of the Mississippi and St Croix rivers. I like to look beyond the railroad bridge there, where the rivers meet and the St Croix disappears into the muddy Mississippi.

When I first moved to Minnesota nearly 32 years ago, teenagers from the Twin Cities would head across the border to Wisconsin to party in Prescott. Bars still line the main street just up the hill from the river, and we've certainly been to a few of those establishments for a beer on a Sunday afternoon. On most days, though, we simply make a stop beside the public dock and watch the people and their boats.



Railroad bridge at Prescott

On Friday, Prescott seemed like a good destination, less than 30 minutes door-to-door. We took off in the Corvette, happily soaking in the sun and enjoying unseasonably warm mid-April temperatures in the mid-seventies. Boaters and fishermen were on the river, but the heavy summer boat traffic is still weeks away.

St Joseph Church, Prescott

I had half hoped to see late migrating birds but I suppose most of the waterfowl have already flown north for their summer nesting places. A few bald eagles glided above the tree line, too far away for photos or decent viewing. A kid -- late teens or early twenties -- stopped to talk to Bob and pointed us in the direction of a peregrine falcon nest high in a tower of the railroad bridge. The falcons weren't in evidence, but I'm looking forward to sightings later in the spring.

The trees were "greening up" along our route and a few early cherry trees competed with the magnolias, now in full bloom. It was another perfect day.

La Crosse Wisconsin: October 15-16

Woodchuck in the park on the La Crosse riverfront

 La Crosse Wisconsin was the destination for our last 2014 Corvette overnight. Perfect midwestern fall weather graced our sunny ride along the Mississippi River.  After some debate, we chose the Minnesota side of the river for the outbound trip and returned home through Wisconsin.


View from Grandad Park, La Crosse

We went right to the river after arriving in La Crosse. People were walking along the shore, and a couple of little woodchucks foraged in the park. Our Holiday Inn hotel room wasn't ready when we checked in, so we had a drink at the bar where the bartender suggested we visit Grandad Park for a great view. Spectacular is more like it: the Mississippi River and vistas that include Wisconsin, Minnesota and Iowa, though I -- geographically challenged -- wasn't sure which was which.

We weren't really hungry enough for our dinner at the Freight House: sirloin steak for Bob, prime rib for me; salad bar and baked potato for each of us. The evening was still warm when we left the restaurant.

After a swim the next morning, we waited a little for the heavy fog to lift and were surprised that the temperature was already about 60F. Bob took the roof off the Vette at Lake Pepin in front of the Pickle Factory, so we rode the rest of the way home in an "open" vehicle.

Sandhill crane: that's my story and I'm stickin' to it

My favorite stop was at Rieck's Park, where an observant birdwatcher claimed to have seen green winged teal, which I think I saw myself, though I couldn't be sure. I took few photos, including several of what may have been a sandhill crane in the marsh. Later, I learned sandhill cranes had been observed a few weeks earlier at Anderson Berry Farm in Isanti, 125 miles NW of Alma, so the speculation seemed reasonable.

By the time we walked in the door in late afternoon, it was summer on the deck and we opened the windows to let in the day's heat.

Perfect Fall Day

A little slice of Minnesota and Wisconsin

We stored the boat on Saturday. This is usually a quick "allez-retour" because we usually take the Corvette at the same time. However, the weather has been so lovely this fall that we decided to keep the little Vette for another week and do a little day trip after dropping off the boat.

Kanabec County farmland (I think)

Isanti is a kind of gateway to the north, so we had a few choices for the day's ride. We settled on St. Croix State Park, where we once spent many weekends in the long ago motorhome days of the nineties.

The drive to Hinckley on Highways 47 and 23 was unfamiliar to us, rolling in Kanabec county past colorful trees and farmland. Cattle grazed in apparent contentment as temperatures rose rapidly to the fifties. We reached St. Croix State Park before noon. The air was filled with the scent of pine, dried leaves and sensory memories of camping days.

St. Croix State Park landscape

We walked along the still familiar St. Croix River bluff trail and rode over to the old swimming beach, where I could still, in my mind's eye, see kids playing and a little fawn lying quietly beside the water on the other side. A couple of cyclists were resting on an empty bench.

We reluctantly left the park and crossed to the Wisconsin side of the St. Croix. By now we were getting hungry and happy to stop at the Pour House in Siren for a BLT lunch. Traffic was much heavier as we rode into the sun began its evening descent in the west.

I closed my eyes for a few minutes and enjoyed the delicious luxury of sleeping in the car as Bob drove toward home. The gloriously perfect fall day was total gift.

Michigan Junket: Beating Stormy Weather



Planter on the deck at Lac La Belle Lodge

Pics We congratulated ourselves this morning when the early fog burned off and the sun shone brightly on the lake. It was almost hot by the time we left the Marquette Hampton, but the sky was soon overcast and the wind began to blow. Didn't feel it at all in the Corvette, though. Soon rain was falling and I was happy that there wasn't too much traffic on the road.

I think I would have been happy to head home to Minnesota by the time we reached Houghton, but Bob was eager to show me Lac Labelle and Copper Harbor, where he snowmobiled for so many years. On we pressed. I wished that I hadn't forgotten my umbrella in my car the day we left.

Even in the rain, the drive was beautiful, with leaves changing color along the route, as fall began to impose its presence on the land. When we stopped for lunch in the Bear Belly Bar & Grill at Lac La Belle Lodge . I had a great bowl of chili and Bob enjoyed his BLT. We both ordered a glass of local beer, both delicious.



Brockway Mountain

By the time we finished lunch, the sky had cleared and we were soon riding in full sunshine. We drove into, but didn't visit, For Wilkins, where the ranger steered us toward Brockway Mountain. We made our way along Hwy 26, south to Eagle River, where we turned away from Lake Superior. Views of Lake Superior were spectacular. A lone kayaker paddled silently as the waves lapped lightly on the sandy beach.

By this time, I was fading fast but Bob's stamina has been increasing with each day, and I was afraid that he still had a couple of hundred miles in him. Fortunately, he was ready to stop in Houghton. We made a nostalgic stop at the Ramada Inn in Hancock, an old snowmobile stop across the Portage River from Houghton. We were assailed by the mildew and decades of cigarette smoke locked in well used furnishings, and my heart sank, thinking that the lovely bridge and river view would trump a less scenic hotel down the road.

I needn't have worried. After a few minutes waiting for a front desk service rep, the oppressive odors and seedy appearance of the place did their job, and Bob decided he couldn't stay there. We made our way to the new Country Inn and Suites, where our king room still has a new hotel smell. No view or ambience, but clean comfort counts for something.

Michigan Junket: Pat's Bar & Grill

Pat's Bar & Grill

Pics We were a little hungry Wednesday evening, but not hungry enough to have a big meal. I persuaded Bob to stop at Pat's Bar & Grill, which looked like too much of a dive for his taste but, not surprisingly, seemed like my kind of bar.

The bar runs the length of the place and the kitchen is off to the side. One young girl was running the whole show: the bar, the kitchen, the pool tables, video gambling. Bob ordered a scotch & soda, and I a gin & tonic. The soda and tonic were both flat, and the drinks were served in small bar glasses that looked as though they should have a Coca Cola logo on them. Drink prices were taped to each bottle.

We ordered burgers and one order of fries, made from fresh potatoes. Delicious. Hot. Loaded with calories. I had a second g & t, which tasted better than the first. We left the server a good tip and complimented her ability to manage the bar with no apparent effort or stress.

A satisfying evening.

Michigan Junket: Scenic Route to Marquette

Bob & Cath on Lake Superior

Pics We left a little later Wednesday morning and were treated to another glorious day. The ride along the shore was beautiful, and the heat of the day simply intensified our enjoyment of the day. We stopped in the early afternoon for lunch, and decided that we would prefer to eat in one of the parks near Munising. A few minutes later, we were having our Subway sandwiches in the municipal park just outside the city.



View from Hampton Inn balcony

Along the way, I managed to break the GPS connector so we are now without a GPS. Minor panic, but no matter, I wanted a more updated GPS anyway. We stopped at the tourist information center outside Marquette and were both impressed with the knowledge and enthusiasm of the two employees who truly love their area.

The Hampton Inn is new and beautiful and pricey, but the view, location and free breakfast are well worth the premium price. We had hoped to see divers from the cliffs north of town, but we managed to miss any divers who might have been performing. The shores of the lake are beautiful here, and very characteristic of Lake Superior in general.

Michigan Junket: Mackinac Island Memories

Mackinac Island's downtown, less bustling in September

Pics When Bob and I were married in 1983, we had little money but lots of energy and creativity. Our honeymoon hotel was an old Nimrod camper, difficult to set up and cramped inside, but we had beautiful weather in the week before the Fourth of July and I remember thinking how much I love being outdoors. One of our stops was Mackinac Island.


Iroquois Hotel, where we had lunch at the Carriage House

Bob photographed the Mackinac Bridge with his old Canon as we drove across, and I imagined myself careening over the edge into Lake Michigan.  I don't remember where we camped; Bob says he thinks there was a campground in St. Ignace at the time so perhaps it was there. My only previous experience on a ferry was rocking and heaving across the Bay of Fundy in the winter, so I was pleasantly surprised by the short crossing to the Island.

The main street was just as crowded and bustling then as it was today, but we rented bicycles to ride around the island. I was extremely apprehensive, since my only previous bike experience as an adult had exacerbated my chronic knee pain. Bob raised the bike seat and I discovered the joy of riding a bike without stress on the knees. I was amazed that I could ride 8 miles so quickly; I think we went around twice.



The Grand Hotel

Seven years ago, we returned to Mackinac Island, camping once again in our little Palomino tent trailer. This time we had our own bikes and we simply unloaded and began our ride right off the ferry. Same Main Street crowding on a very hot summer day, but the crowds dissipated once we began the ride. No photos of that ride, though: my first digital camera stopped working at our fist stop and the ensuing near panic attack did put something of a damper on my enjoyment. It was my first realization that I sometimes miss the moment as I record it for the future. By this time, I was an experienced rider and amazed that a quarter of a century had left its marks, so many of them good ones.



State park is an oasis of calm on the island

On this visit, the crowds were more manageable because September had arrived and lines for the ferry weren't long. The delicious lunch and horse carriage ride, described in another post, were lovely and I didn't have to stand in line to buy fudge, the first time I've ever given into the temptation to do so.

Mackinac Island's natural beauty is breathtaking. Shoppers might enjoy the bustle of Main Street but others will prefer the magnificent views only a short distance from downtown. I haven't yet visited the Grand Hotel, as I find the fee to visit the porch, dress code after six and other rules too cumbersome for my taste. Next time, perhaps in lilac season.

Michigan Junket: Afternoon on Mackinac Island

We waited for the ferry at the dock near our hotel

Pics We crossed from the mainland to Mackninac Island on a newer ferry, a jet boat with a large rooster tail. The last time we were here seven years ago, there were only a few jet boats, but they now seem to make up most, if not all, of the Star Line's Mackinac Island fleet.



We crossed to the island on a ferry like this one

We were hungry by the time we got to the island, as it was nearly 2:00 p.m., so we stopped immediately at the Carriage House. The food (whitefish sandwich for Bob, BLT for me) and Fat Tire beer was excellent, and so was the service. We dined in the garden and were so relaxed and happy there that we even had dessert, the restaurant's daily special, a superb Michigan peach sundae.

After lunch, Bob booked us on a carriage ride, something he's been wanting to do since way before our last visit to the island. My objections were predictable though unfounded: I was afraid the horses might be maltreated and I didn't want to be a party to animal abuse.

I was happy to be wrong in my assessment of the island's horses. In fact, the horses seem healthy and  beautifully cared for. I loved the ride around the island, especially after we transferred carriages at the top of the hill and took a tour through Mackinac Island State Park.



All the horses on the island are owned by the same person and live in the same stable

The only bad surprise: we were dumped close to Fort Mackinac and told to find our way back down the steep hill to the village below.  A second option involved a wait of 30 minutes plus an additional 45 minutes to ride down to the Main Street, which wasn't really an option at all as we had about 30 minutes to catch the 5:30 ferry to the mainland.
Bob's soon to be replaced right knee wasn't up to the challenge, so he held on to me for part of the perilous walk down the path. Fortunately we arrived without incident, despite a fit of the giggles about half way into the treacherous descent.

I enjoyed the carriage ride much more than I had ever expected, but Bob found it a little long, though not as long as he would have it we'd waited for another carriage to take us down the hill.

Michigan Junket: Escanaba to Mackinaw City

Mackinac Bridge

Pics The sun was shining when we checked out of our Best western room on Tuesday morning, so we were looking forward to our drive to Mackinaw City.

Hamilton Hotel from the ferry dock.

The road was busier than we had anticipated, and Bob passed dozens of cars along the way, between the designated passing zones. We stopped a couple of times before the Mackinac Bridge to enjoy the lakeshore and admire the beautiful suspension bridge from a distance.

We decided to check into our hotel early, so that we wouldn't be scrambling for a room at the end of the day. Bob had picked  the Hamilton Hotel for its location directly on the beach, beside the ferry dock. Our beautiful, brand new room was inexpensive ($109), partly because of a $30 AAA coupon. We both thought it was the greatest beachfront room we had ever stayed in, surpassing even another favorite, the Monterey Beach Resort.

Michigan Junket: Crossing Wisconsin

Pics We got off to a fairly early start on Labor Day. The air was so full of moisture from the previous night's rain that I felt wet before we even loaded the car. I swept puddles off the deck and we finished our packing. Off at 8:28 and into Wisconsin before 9:00.

The day was overcast and ominous clouds filled the sky in the east. Sure enough, we did hit a few sprinkles from time to time but also saw a little sun. We took Hwy 51 north from Wausau but headed east earlier than usual, on Hwy 64. The two-way road was a little congested for part of the route, until Labor Day travelers branched off for Green Bay. Our only delays were due to route confusion around Eau Claire on Hwy 29 and a Hwy 64 detour that temporarily took us a little south of the main road.

Our decision to take Hwy 35 rather Hwy 41 up the coast from Menonomie, MI, was a little disappointing. We picked it for the "scenic route" along Lake Michigan, the most of the scenery was blocked by private properties along on the lake. By the time we entered the eastern time zone north of Fox, we were a little frazzled and ready to stop for the night.

Confusion ensued. I somehow figured that a Best Western in the AAA book was the same Escanaba motel as one we have stayed in seven years ago, on the Lake Michigan shore. By then it was pouring rain and we drove around, somewhat aimlessly, as I tried to follow the GPS and Bob was convinced that it was leading us away from the lake, which it was. We saw a couple of real dumps north of Escanaba and I imagined myself on a mildewed mattress watching the rain fall.

 By now, tensions were somewhat high. We followed GPS instructions back downtown, rejected the Comfort Suites (no restaurant) and ended up at Best Western, mostly because of the onsite restaurant, which was, in fact, closed for Labor Day. Damn.

Moods lightened with a little scotch & soda and a swim in the large, empty pool. No view, but a king bed with nice bedding was very comfortable.

Back on the Whitefish Chain

We left gloomy St. Paul on Tuesday morning and headed north. Who knew it would take a full hour to drive from St. Michael to St. Cloud? We heard on the news last night that locals don't use 94W for that usually short hop north, in fact, Michele Bachmann visited with Gov. Dayton yesterday to discuss the widening part of that bottlenecked section of I94.

Still, we checked into Manhattan Beach Lodge around 2:00 p.m. and had soon launched the boat at the public launch not far from the resort. Since my fake knee is older than Bob's by 6 months, I got the job of climbing into the boat from the trailer at the launch. I've done this only once or twice (in 30 years!) but I was able to get in easily and with confidence. I was lacking competence in the basic skills required, however, and I mean basic -- like unsnapping the bow cover.

My driving has improved so much that I wasn't terrified by the drive back to the resort to park the vehicle and trailer, or, rather, position the vehicle so the trailer could be parked. We enjoyed a beautiful afternoon on the Whitefish Chain, much sunnier than the overcast skies we had left at home.

The only challenge was getting out of the boat. For me, it was easier than in years past because I finally have two stable knees for the first time in 50+ years. However, the docks at the resort are shaky and, in my opinion, dangerously unstable. Bob was very hesitant and somewhat afraid of getting up on the dock. Fortunately, someone came along to help and Bob was, in fact, able to figure out his exit.

It was all very unnerving. This morning, I checked all the docks for stability by rocking each one gently and almost ended up in the drink myself. I set off a scary wave motion and ended up bending over to stabilize myself with my hands. An image of Nik Wallenda came into my head and I started feeling dizzy. Fortunately, I got my wits about me and was able to walk upright to the shore without totally disgracing myself.

A Long Ago Memory of Crow Wing County

I love to cross the line into Crow Wing County. The summer of my first year in Minnesota I thought of Crow Wing County as the gateway to the north, and the long drive would soon be over. Thirty years later, the ride north is on improved highways, and the area doesn't seem remote, as it did before cell phones, cable TV, and, more recently, wireless internet.

One of my first experiences was fighting for a camping spot at the Army Corps of Engineers Campground at Crosslake. For many years "getting a spot" meant waiting in line for hours outside the ranger station. That line extended out into the street, often in extreme heat.. Family members would often take turns standing in line and sometimes the "spot holding" or attempts to "budge" to a better position would create friction among the campers. I nearly got into a fight myself one time, though I quickly backed down and ceded the spot.

On one brutally hot afternoon we were unsuccessful in the wait game and ended up instead at Crow Wing Campground several miles down the road. We set up the heavy army tent and retired early on our cots. Bob and Chris quickly fell asleep: there was nothing to do and the Coleman lantern wasn't safe to light inside the tent, so even reading was out of the question. After sundown, the temperature quickly fell and I was soon freezing cold in my thin sleeping bag.

Eventually I went outside the tent. The sky was black, illuminated only by a full moon and a sea of stars. The night birds kept me company during the long, magical summer night. The next day we got our spot.

Although we haven't camped for a few years now, and our wireless devices reduce the sense of blessed remoteness, the Crow Wing County sign still signals the beginning of a pleasant stay in the north woods.

Dat's de Mississippi River

 Here begins the Mississippi River's  2552 mile journey to the Gulf of Mexico.
 

There are few tourists on this cloudy Monday afternoon: some family groups, including an older couple with children and grandchildren. The man looked like one of those Swedes or Norwegians who seemed to populate Minnesota when I first moved here 30 years ago: a stereotype, the kind of guy who wears overalls except for church on Sunday and sounds like an Ole and Lena joke.

He was  quiet until we the headquarters came into view, and then he stopped in his tracks and gestured toward the water. "Dat's de Mississippi River", he said reverently to no one in particular.

The view was awesome.

Caretaker Woman by Jeff Savage. Itasca State Park.

Women are the caretakers of the water in the Anishinabe tradition. Sculptor Jeff Savage's beautiful Caretaker Woman watches over the path that leads to the headwaters of the Mississippi River. The artist writes that she is a reflection in the headwaters, and her flowing hair represents the flowing currents of the water.

The river is about 800 feet from this point. The walk reminds me of the approach to Sacré-Coeur at the top of Montmartre in Paris, where anticipation increases just before the church comes into view. It feels like a holy place, and we stop for awhile at the little bridge over the creek where the great river begins it 2522 mile journey to the Gulf of Mexico.

Creator Spiritus

The north country is filled with the images and songs of the Creator. The colors and sounds of the land and water reflect the splendor of God, and I am at peace here in the north. The morning birds wake as dawn slips into being beyond the horizon, before the sun splashes light and heat upon the water.

In June, the days lengthen and the solstice is near. Brilliant greens and blues grace the day with the boldness of youth, and the Spirit whispers softly in the peaceful, black night.

Leech Lake

Leech Lake Lighthouse

Land of the Ojibwe, Leech Lake is always in the running as a destination for the Governor's Fishing Opener. I've always imagined it as full of, well, leeches, but I was very excited to stop near Walker for an introductory view of the big lake.

Not a leech in sight, but there were lots of mosquitoes (fish food, I think). A couple of fishing boats were visible from shore and large dead bass in the rocks was evidence that there are indeed fish in that huge lake.


Leech Lake

The wind blew and a chill filled the June afternoon.



Cabin Amenities

I can’t believe the wifi is fairly reliable, because nothing else is. I must be a little dim, because it took three spills on the end table beside the sagging (but comfy) couch before I realized that the table is broken. It’s one of those tables from the 50s with two levels, the lower one for magazines and junk shoved under the upper lamp level. In this case, one of the pressed board panels on the upper level  is separating from the other two, though it can be pressed back into place. The weight of the lamp and a cup of coffee must be too much for it.

Other discoveries: don’t pull too hard on the pull string that turns on the bathroom light; sit carefully to avoid tipping over the second “double” bed – it’s really a double mattress on a twin frame; the curtain rods are wedged into the frame with the broken handle of an old pan; each of the three mini-fridges has a different non-working component; reading is challenging with a 25-watt bulb.

Round Lake Boat Adventure

Early this morning, I announced that I would NOT be swimming at our little beach. David told us yesterday that kids had thrown rocks in the water so the beach would not be sandy all over. Well, I think it’s taken a century of kids to fill the swimming area with rocks, and it is far too shallow for my taste.

Instead, we went to a public ramp on Round Lake, about 28 miles away. An easy launch, and we enjoyed being out on the water, though the “roundness” of it, and the predictable housing on its shores were a little boring for Bob. We had packed roast beef sandwiches for lunch but instead stopped at Famous Dave’s (the original one) for lunch. I liked the Moose Drool dark beer and enjoyed watching some Olympic swimming.

Several boats were stopped at a sand bar where people were swimming, but Bob preferred to let me have my swim back at the boat ramp, where I had to watch out for boat traffic. No matter: keeps me on my toes. The water was clear and cool. The afternoon was fun and we will now have roast beef sandwiches for supper.

The shack was very hot when we returned at the end of the afternoon. We brought our drinks outside and are watching late afternoon golfers. I’m hoping for some wildlife but so far all we’ve seen are a couple of wild turkeys (not us) and a deer running across the highway.

Coffee Mishap

We haven’t rented a cabin for many years. As I looked for coffee and filters, I remembered the early years of our marriage when we didn’t have much money, and a week at “the lake” was our vacation. I’ve been too spoiled by years of Hiltons and pricey ocean views. I was soon brought back to reality when I knocked over the cone and coffee dust sprayed all over the carpeted floor. I spouted swear words I didn’t know were in my vocabulary; Bob laughed loudly. “The vacuum’s in the corner”, he said, referring to the broom and dust pan. Cleaned up the mess and we are now enjoying Dunn Brothers brew in the woods.

Morning MIst

Slept soundly until I was awakened by cold feet, the first time I’ve been chilly in months. Went out to take some pictures shortly after six, thinking I was alone in the still of early morning, until I got down to the lake and saw a golfer practicing his swing in the distance. The mist was floating above the water and bullfrogs sang in the reeds. God was near.

Dinner at the Chippewa Inn

Many miles on County Road B at dusk ended with a pretty good meal at the Chippewa Inn after dismissing what the property owner referred to as “the redneck bar”. We had hoped to sit at the bar and watch the Olympic coverage but it was “drinkers only”, so we opted for food. We were immediately served a relish tray with carrots, radishes, celery, hot cherry peppers, pickled herring, cheese dip, liverwurst and an assortment of crackers. We split the fish & chips, substituting a baked potato for the chips. I was surprised to enjoy a half decent glass of cabernet sauvignon. We rode home in the dark, guided by the GPS, a gift to Bob from the boys a couple of years ago.

Barker Lake Lodge

The WiFi network name is “VIRUS THREAT”. The owners don’t want leeches lined up outside the hot spot looking for internet service. I am amazed that the old Vaio can pick up the signal.

It was a long ride to Barker Lake Lodge, but I didn’t get concerned until we drove several miles along a gravel road named “Hemlock Lane”. The “lodge” appeared to be (and, in fact, was) off limits, so we followed a hand lettered sign to the “office”, where we were immediately ushered out and pointed toward Cabin 5. I struggled onto the deck, built (or plunked) several feet off the ground. Tripped over the step to get into the unlocked cabin. A familiar smell (exterminator) transported me back to some of the hovels I occupied in Montreal when I was in my 20s. Bob has never lived in a slum and does not know that odor. Whoever created the Barker Lake Lodge website did a very creative job with the pics of the "amenities".

Our host, David Palmer, rode over to Cabin 5 on his 1950s era Cushman after we’d moved in our things. There is no firewood, no ice, no fire ring and the lodge is unavailable because it’s been rented for a family reunion. Olympic coverage begins in a few minutes.  I have already had one stiff drink and am working on my second.  I am grateful to have a good tempered husband who isn’t blaming me for leading him to this hell hole. I know why Chicago gangsters came here in the 1920s: what law enforcement on earth would follow them here!

We can’t launch our boat here at the lodge, and the lake does NOT connect to Chippewa Flowage as the map seems to indicate. Not unless you intend to walk through the passage, that is. It is rocky and shallow, perhaps partly navigable by canoe. Bob settled on boating in Round Lake tomorrow, a dozen or so miles away.

I’ve moved from the deck to a picnic table facing our neighbor’s truck. For the first time in my life, I’m thinking seriously of taking up golf. The course behind me is empty, maybe because it’s located in a cow pasture. Looks like a good place for a novice to take up the sport.

In recent years, I’ve felt a little wistful thinking about my long ago youth, spent in the north woods. I’m in the north woods this evening, and am a little less nostalgic.

North Shore of Lake Superior - July 2-3 2011

After the cool spring, summer hit with a vengeance on July 1. The Corvette and crew left for the North Shore shortly after 9 Saturday morning for a pleasant and uneventful journey. Fortunately, we didn't need a break along the way, because all rest stops were closed due to the Minnesota state government shutdown. Highway 23 out of Askov was as beautiful as ever, only a little more traveled than usual on this double holiday weekend, including both Canada Day and the Fourth of July.

We stopped at Grandma's for lunch and split a walleye sandwich. Canal Park was already sweltering and for the first time in many visits I didn't need a jacket by the water. We glided through Gitch-Gammi Park outside Duluth, packed with holiday picnickers and visitors. I was surprised to check into our room shortly after 2 -- we usually have to wait at least an hour when we arrive so early. Although I was somewhat deflated to see our rather barebones room (122-1) on the first floor, with only the slightest view of the lake a few hundred yard away, the location was, in fact ideal.

We headed to the outdoor pool almost immediately and spent the rest of the afternoon in the water. By the time we got back to our room, a bride and groom were walking across the little bridge from the beach to their reception. Nathan and Lindsey had 60-70 guests who were fun to watch throughout the afternoon and evening. At around 7, the bridal couple left their reception for photographs on the beach. Lindsey was a very determined bride. systematically staging every possible pose. At one point I thought she would wade into the lake in her dress, but she seemed satisfied with a couple of photos seated on the beach with her new husband, who seemed somewhat less enthusiastic than she with the multitude of photo ops. The newlyweds even stopped to pet a beautiful little puppy walking on the beach, a truly spontaneous and exuberant encounter.

Our dinner at the hotel's Kamloops restaurant was, at best, mediocre. Unfortunately, a quick drive into Two Harbors led us to the town's great Dairy Queen where we succumbed to the temptation of a blizzard (Bob) and cone (me). We both had an early bedtime: "a good thing" because Bob was like a little kid in the morning, ready for an early start.

I felt as though I was on a bus tour when I returned from the beach, where I took a few pictures shortly after dawn. I had hoped for a morning swim but daylight was already burning in Bob's mind and there was no time for my own ablutions, as Bob was already showered and packed. We were the first to check out at about 8 AM.

We drove up the shore to Gooseberry Falls where we had to park on the side of the road, because all state parks are closed until the shutdown ends. The visit was fortuitous, though, because we walked to the upper falls which we haven't visited for many years, since we usually walk down the hill to the lower falls. The wildflowers were in full bloom and the chilly spray from the falls blew lightly over us. Only a few people were in the park and the quiet was majestic and almost spiritual.

Our trip home was easy, with little traffic. This was one of our most enjoyable visits to the beautiful North Shore.

Manhattan Beach Sunday

On Sunday morning, we awoke to a sunny sky, calm lake and promise of a beautiful day at Manhattan Beach Lodge on the Whitefish chain. Bob and I went to 7:30 Mass where I succumbed to the temptation of looking at the pictures on my camera during the homily. I felt quite undetected until Bob's reprimand: he accused me -- wrongly, I think -- of distracting the assembled faithful. So much for that caper.

After breakfast at Pine Peaks, we launched the boat and I made my little contribution to the effort by driving the Traverse and trailer back from the ramp to Manhattan Beach. This is the task that filled me with terror as recently as two years ago, so I'm inordinately proud of  this achievement that could easily be managed by a new driver.

We were eager to get out on the lake, empty now, except for a few fishermen. Ever optimistic, I wore long pants and several jacket layers over my swimsuit (how crazy am I?), I took my favorite spot in the bow. John, Trudy and the boys soon joined us, but by then the sky was totally overcast and while the boat ride was fun, we were all chilled and returned to the dock before noon.

We all -- Bob, Scott, Meggan, John, Trudy, Adam, Mitchell, Chris and I -- spent the afternoon on the grass on chairs borrowed from the restaurant patio. In the early afternoon, we were joined by Matt Beam and his girlfriend, Leann. Scott and Adam hauled over a portable fire ring We gathered firewood and Scott built a fire; the resort dock staff weren't working in the inclement weather but there were plenty of boats looking for space, so Mitchell entertained himself with dock boy duties that earned him $13, as well as a good education in customer service. One of Mitchell's customers, a former dock boy himself, taught him to tie what looked like a clove hitch. I was disappointed not to be on the water, but the afternoon was very pleasant and entertaining.

After an afternoon of beverages and snacks, the weather hadn't cleared so the boys took a couple of quick rides and both Scott and John pulled their boats out of the water. By then, it was after 7 and we ended up staying at Manhattan Beach for dinner. Although the meal got off to a rocky start with a long wait for a table, we had a half decent meal. The best server in the restaurant brought drinks, bread and salad/soup very quickly and my frustration dispelled. A pleasant evening.

We woke up to more rain and I don't think the forecast of 80+ degrees is accurate. Everyone else is packing up to leave but we are scheduled to stay another night. With wind, more rain and T-storms in store later in the day, I would rather go home, but of course traffic may be horrendous and we may stay the night, as planned.

Eagles have Landed

Pulled into Crosslake around 2:30 CDT and stopped at Holiday for gas and night crawlers. The boat was exhibiting its usual recalcitrance and Bob couldn't get gas in the tank, so he disconnected the trailer from the boat and cranked to raise the bow, knowing from experience that gas would flow better in this position. Usually under these circumstances we are at a gas dock and my task is to sit in the stern and weigh the boat down, thereby achieving a similar objective.

I was summoned into action just as I was depositing the plastic container of worms in the cooler, carefully ensuring that none of the worm bedding overflowed onto the ice. My job was to keep the trailer from rolling backward. Other customers felt obliged to comment on the gasoline spilled liberally under the trailer, or note that the trailer was disconnected from the car. Very loudly.

Fortunately, I knew none of these people but, just in case, I proclaimed assertively that I had never seen Bob before in my life and had been accosted by him to lean against the boat! A strictly temporary assignment.

We turned on the weather after checking in: tornadoes near the Twin Cities but, fortunately, the worst here seems to be moderately heavy winds.

I think we'll wait till tomorrow to launch the boat. Heading outside now to enjoy the beautiful view.

94 Westbound - Mile Marker 190

Our first junket of the season to central Minnesota was delayed at mile marker 190 of  Highway 94 this morning shortly after we left home. It was the Traverse's first serious outing and performance seemed to be optimal until we heard the unmistakable sound of a tire in distress. At first, Bob thought the noise was coming from the boat trailer, but a quick roadside investigation revealed an almost totally deflated left rear tire on the Chevy. Ironically, Bob's decision to trade in the Yukon had been accelerated by its need for new tires! Worthy of note: the GMC's tires were problem free for the 6-1/2 years he had that vehicle.

The OnStar subscription that was included with the new car was activated. The same competent voice we've heard in commercials was transmitted via the speaker and we were soon connected to a Chevrolet call center. Within a few minutes, we were promised roadside assistance within 40 minutes. Sure enough, a big yellow rig arrived right on schedule and the operator plugged the large nail hole, so that we were soon on our way. Stranded for less than an hour!

We sat in the car with seat belts on while trucks and other vehicles whizzed by us, some dangerously close. We were grateful for those who moved out a lane, for good weather, sunlight and bright flashers on both the car and the boat. We continued our journey in the wind, passing through a little rain on the way. An eventful beginning to this Memorial Day Weekend.

Rainstorm at Minnesota Landscape Arboretum

The spring blooms might have been at their peak this weekend if the unremitting rain hadn't washed the blossoms off flowering trees, or it the sun had come out long enough to shine on the thousands of tulips, daffodils and other spring flowers.


I had never visited the Arboretum in spring and was looking forward to this field trip, even though the sky darkened ominously as we approached Chanhassen. Thankfully, we were in the Traverse, not the Corvette -- I thought to myself that we would be safer if this scary sky yielded a tornado. By the time we went through the gates, there was no question of walking 3-Mile Drive. A few unsuspecting Japanese tourists bravely walked with their umbrellas, cheerfully taking pictures of one another as the rain got heavier and heavier. We followed the open-sided tram through the grounds.

I took a few pictures from the patios of the Visitor Center, and managed to stay quite dry. We stopped at Fort Snelling State Park to see the deer (total count: 1) and went to Lucky's in Mendota Heights for a beer and a bite. By the time we got home, we could hear tornado sirens in Minneapolis and watched the weather on TV. At least two confirmed touchdowns, one in Brooklyn Park and the other in North Minneapolis. The sky has lightened and the storm in now south of Forest Lake. It's been an exciting day for weather watchers.

St. Croix Afternoon

The predicted rain missed the Twin Cities and we enjoyed a warm, slightly overcast day. Light lunch and a beer at Pier 500. When Bob commented on the high water, the bartender said he didn't consider it "high" until it was over the road in front of the bar. While the river was still far from the road, all the picnic tables in the park were underwater.

The Stillwater lift bridge was still open so we crossed into Minnesota and took a couple of pics. The water didn't look more than a foot or two from the bridge. Since the temperatures have warmed so much, waters may rise again in the next couple of weeks.

Flood Run - Saturday, April 2

No skiers at Welch Village.

Twin Cities temperatures have been way below normal in the last couple of weeks, and the predicted record flooding has not come to pass. And that's a very good thing.

Most rivers and lakes crested last week and we set out to view water levels in the beautiful river towns between St. Paul and Lake City. Our route took us past South St. Paul, where the snow has melted to a brown, tundra-like landscape, and the Mississippi looks overfilled and just barely contained by its banks. I finally tried driving the Traverse and found it similar to my long ago Dodge Grand Caravan. I turned the wheel back to Bob in Hastings, at Lock & Dam #2. The river isn't much higher than it was last weekend, but most of the ducks and geese seem to have left their winter open water -- for nesting sites, maybe?


We took one of our favorite side trips to the Welch Village area. The hills are still patchy with snow, looking more like late winter than early spring, and an undemanding skier could still get a few runs in, though no lifts were in operation.

A usually gentle trout stream rushed merrily toward its destination -- the Cannon River, I suppose. We  drove into Red Wing past the Red Wing Construction company, down the hill past the train station to the river. The park was mostly underwater and closed to traffic. A solitary mallard dived for food right beside me and seemed unaware of my presence.

we turned back home at Lake City. The river was as high as I've ever seen it. Ice hasn't yet melted in the marina area. Most unusual: there were no boats on the water on a beautiful Saturday afternoon. Sailboats are still in dry dock and launches are all underwater. We couldn't resist a stop in Prescott, where fishing boats were positioned under and near the railroad bridge, undeterred by high water.